The Waterfront, Mpulungu Zambia

The Local Area

Mpulungu is a small town situated at the bottom of the rift valley on the Southern tip of Lake Tanganyika. Its population is about 10,000, but on any one day there will be many more people present as it is a focal point for fishermen and farmers in its surrounding district. For a long time Mpulungu has been a little backward, but has recently started developing very quickly, and now is a busy market town. Mpulungu is an International harbour, as Congo, Tanzania and Burundi all share Lake Tanganyika.

Mpulungu
Lake Tanganyika

Mpulungu is well known in Zambia for its fishing industry, which is currently declining. However the tourist trade is all set to expand spectacularly in the next few years. For the longer term future Mpulungu is sited on the only viable inland route between Southern and Central Africa, and though this is reflected in a small trade between Burundi and Zambia through the harbour, this inland route will expand greatly in the future, and Mpulungu may well become a large commercial centre.

The rift valley is about 30 Km wide at Mpulungu, and both sides can be seen defining the sides of Lake Tanganyika going from Mpulungu into the distance. Off shore islands, and the 1000 metre sides of the rift valley set against a (normally) blue lake and sky provide a spectacular scenic backdrop everywhere you go in Mpulungu

Kalambo Falls

The most famous and spectacular is Kalambo falls, but there are others. There is a road to Kalambo from Mbala, but for those who want, you can go there by boat and a walk. If you don’t want to hire a boat you can go by water taxi to Chisanza (K30), making sure you specify that you are going to Kalambo.

You will be dropped off at one of several suitable starting points where a path leads you up the rift valley side (not vertical here). The walk or rough scramble takes about two hours, so you can come back the same day. Or take a tent and sleep at the falls on the lake shore. Most prefer to take a guide which can be found in Mpulungu or at the drop off point.

Sandy beaches

Most of the coastline of Lake Tanganyika is cliff or rock or stone beach. But sandy beaches do exist, and several nice sandy beaches can be found close to Mpulungu.

Access is by boat. Many of the beaches are the sites of fishing villages or lodges, but there are some spots where a tourist can go and be relatively undisturbed. One bugbear in a sandy beach are the reeds. These come and go on an unpredictable basis. What is clear open sand one year is covered by reeds 5 years later.

The Harbour

Zambia’s only international port. Not really a tourist spot unless you are leaving the country by boat.

However when the Liemba comes the gates are opened, and you can take the chance to explore Liemba, or buy pineapple and coconuts etc. from the Quayside.
Liemba

MV Liemba is the oldest functional passenger ship in the world. Made in Germany and transported in pieces to Kigoma in 1907, where it was reassembled. In World War 1 it mounted guns and controlled the whole lake. The British sent gunships overland through Congo and after several gun battles Liemba was scuttled in Kigoma harbour. After the war it was refloated and has continued as a passenger and cargo boat serving the long Tanzanian coastline ever since.

Niamokolo Church

Built in 1895 this is the oldest church in Zambia. It was abandoned in 1906 when sleeping sickness wiped out the entire Mpulungu population

IZI Falls

IZI Falls is in the South West corner of the lake, and comes down from the plateau in two stages. It requires a tough bush walk through pretty fierce tropical woodland to reach, from Mbete Fishing village. Only recommended for the physically fit.

Namukale Falls

Namukale Falls into the lake where the Lunzua river enters the village of Kapata. It can be reached by boat or by a two hour walk from Mpulungu. A guide would be needed. Namukale is not a high falls but it is pretty and has a sandy beach underneath where you can swim in the spill pool of the waterfall.

Ngwenya

Ngwenya is the local fish landing beach and market. This is entirely locally run, through the chief, and is independent of government and council. It is also the site of the most important of the local traditions during which a new chief proves his right to rule.

Nsumbu

50 – 80 Km up the lake from Nsumbu is the tourist area of Nsumbu, where there is first class angling, a game park and a number of very good lodges. Nsumbu used to be served by a good plane service and a poor road. Today the road is still poor and the plane service nonexistent. With the opening, during the last year, of an inexpensive, regular ferry service, Mpulungu has become a viable gateway to reach Nsumbu.

Mbala

At the top of the plateau immediately before you reach the slopes of the rift valley is the farming town of Mbala. There are a number of interesting things to do in this town.

There is a good museum founded by one of the first missionaries to arrive in Mbala. This has a very good collection of native masks and musical instruments, amongst other exhibits

There is a road leading to Kalambo Falls for those who wish to drive instead of walk. Just outside of Mbala is Mount Nsunzu, the highest point in Zambia, which offers good views from the top.

In June there is an annual ceremony where all the local chiefs gather and agree (or disagree) on customary matters and traditional dancing etc. is much in evidence.No doubt the Mbala site will have more.

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The Waterfront Bar
Plot 129, Mpulungu, Zambia